Istanbul – celebrating all things food

Istanbul City

ISTANBUL! This bustling metropolis of Türkiye, spanning the two continents of Europe and Asia, is filled with history and charm offering the best of both worlds. With its historic landmarks, world-renowned cuisine, vibrant nightlife, and a maze of old and quaint marketplaces alongside modern shopping arcades, Istanbul is a traveller’s delight.

But most importantly, Istanbul is a food lover’s paradise. Packed with countless dining options, choosing the best restaurants can be challenging! Wander down the streets, and your senses will be captivated by some of the most tempting and delicious eats. Whether it’s doner, kebabs, simit, or something sweet, there’s something for every mood, occasion, and palate!

These are my top picks of some the best the city has got to offer!

 

COFFEE AND BREAKFAST

Breakfast in Istanbul

Traditional Turkish Breakfast at Lokma

LOKMA 

An authentic Turkish breakfast is a must. And the options are endless. Tables filled with a range of small plates – assortment of fresh olives, cheese, bread and pastries, dips and sauces, eggs, fresh veggies, cured meats, honey, clotted cream and so many varieties of jams. The list goes on. You can see why this is THE meal of choice for residents and tourists alike. Value for money and most often, one portion (“bir porsiyon”) is good for two people and so, so, so delicious!

We had the most incredible spread at Lokma café located on the banks of the Bosporous, and the bonus is the fabulous views. Devoured everything from the Bal Kaymak (clotted cream and honey) to Sucuklu Yumurta (an egg dish typically served in a hot pan, consisting of sunny side up eggs and chopped Turkish beef sausage) and Simit (the fluffy yet dense Turkish street bagel) to the Borek (filo pastry stuffed with a variety of fillings such as meat, cheese, spinach or potatoes). Just divine!

For more information visit – http://www.lokma.com.tr/

Address – Rumeli Hisarı, Yahya Kemal Cd. No:12, 34450 Sarıyer/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Breakfast and Coffee

Coffee and Breakfast at Espresso Lab

ESPRESSO LAB

If you love coffee as much as I do, then Espresso Lab is right up your alley (pun unintended of course!). As Europe’s largest coffee experience centre, it is spread over 6,000 sq. metres and boasts a coffee roasting centre, coffee shop, cocktail bar, bakery, workshop station, conference hall, a mini greenhouse area and co-working spaces. Espresso Lab opened its first outlet in 2014 at Istanbul Bilgi University and this Roastery marks the company’s 100th site in Turkey, not to mention it has 160 stores globally.

Breakfast and Coffee

Coffee and Breakfast at Espresso Lab

With all the beans roasted fresh in-house, they prioritize taking the steps that ensure the longevity of quality coffee production life and sustainable coffee making, where economic, ecological and social requirements are met in production. They also serve a variety of freshly made bread, pastries, sandwiches and desserts to accompany your cuppa Joe! Believe me, you’ll go for the coffee but stay on cause the place is just so darn beautiful.

For more information visit – https://en.espressolab.com/coffee–us/

Address – Tozkoparan, General Ali Rıza Gürcan Cd. No: 2, 34173 Güngören/İstanbul, Türkiye

Breakfast and Coffee

Brunch at Kandilli Pastanesi

KANDILLI PASTANESI

Where can you find a more elegant spot for a late breakfast, brunch or perhaps an afternoon tea? Kandili Pastanesi is a stylish café in the charming Kandili neighborhood in Uskudar. Besides being a visual feast, the freshly baked cakes, pastries, croissants and desserts are delectable. Some favourites are chaud-froid d’oeuf (hot-cold egg), brioche avocado, the royal cheese platter and the bakery plate. But for me, the standout dish was the French Toast – a soft pillowy brioche covered in organic maple syrup. Heaven! Oh, and did I mention that servings are on Hermes plates… Wow!

A fresh and highly flavorful start to your day!

For more information visit – https://kandillipastanesi.com/menu/

Address – Kandilli, Kandilli İskele Cd. No: 28, 34684 Üsküdar/İstanbul, Türkiye

LUNCH

Lunch in Istanbul

Lunch at Biz Istanbul

BIZ ISTANBUL

Located in the Ataturk Cultural Center (AKM) in the heart of the city’s art and cultural district, BIZ Istanbul builds its menu around the city’s centuries of experience, seasonal patterns and local produce. Flavours are inspired by the original recipes of the city’s cuisine reinterpreted with modern techniques with Chef Tolga Atalay at the helm.

BIZ has three sections where guests can mix and match by ordering from different menus – Esnaf Lokanta (casual dining), the Bar (serving street food) and Has Lokanta (fine dining). Indulge in slow-cooked casseroles, soups, olive oil dishes, stuffed vegetables, pastries, buns, sherbet, desserts and compote varieties. A taste of the flavours from Istanbul’s history.

And then there is the breathtaking panoramic view of the city too to drink in.

For more information visit – https://www.bizistanbul.com.tr/en

Address – Gümüşsuyu, Ataturk Cultural Center, Mete Cd. No: 2, 34437 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Spice Market

The Spice Market in Istanbul

THE SPICE MARKET

The Spice Market (also known as the Egyptian Bazaar) was built in the 16th century and features rows of vendors in the alleys selling spices, sweets, tea, dry fruits and more. Colourful and fragrant, this tourist hot spot is a must-visit even though it does get quite overcrowded.

Don’t miss the Cankurtaran Gida which is a cured meat and cheese shop in the heart of the bazaar. It offers a unique sheep cheese wrapped in sheep skin called Tulum from Izmir (a very interesting flavor). I absolutely loved the Bal Kaymak – a traditional dairy product produced from buffalo milk, very similar to clotted cream – that is generously doused with honey (top favourite of this trip). Other produce includes Canakkale old cheddar, Ezine white cheese, Gravyer cheese from Kars, special bacon varieties from Kayseri, Karakovan honey from Hakkari and Sirit regions, black and saddle olives from Bursa Gemlik and buffalo milk cream.

And the best part? You can taste everything, and they are even happy to vacuum pack your purchases. Super service too.

For more information visit – https://www.cankurtarangida.com.tr/cankurtaran-gida-san-ve-tic-ltd-sti

Address – Mısır Çarşısı İçi No: 33, 34116 Fatih, Türkiye

 

Spice Market

Lunch at Pandeli Restaurant

PANDELI RESTAURANT

After your wander through the spice bazaar, take the stairs to the first floor to the Pandeli Restaurant featuring characteristically Turkish décor with blue mosaic walls. Expect traditional Turkish dishes like charcoal grilled eggplant salad, rice stuffed vine leaves, okra with lemon and olive oil, Pandeli’s eggplant pie with a leaf of Doner kebab on top (a table favourite) and roasted lamb with seasoned rice… just to name a few.  So, so good.

Views of Istanbul

Views of the city from Pandeli Restaurant

And the Michelin Guide agrees with us. Pandeli was awarded the title of Bib Gourmand in 2022. It’s open only till 7.00pm so lunch would be the best option. Highly recommend making a reservation.

For more information visit – https://www.pandeli.com.tr/index-en.html

Address – Rüstempaşa Mah. Balık Pazarı kapısı Sokağı Mısırçarşı İçi 1, D:2, 34110 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Lunch in Istanbul

Lunch at Ali Ocakbasi

ALI OCAKBASI

No trip to Istanbul is complete without indulging in kebabs. Ali Ocakbasi offers a unique Ocakbasi experience (meats cooked over a charcoal grill). The dishes are prepared using local produce in season. Check out the mezze selection including a creamy hummus, deliciously smokey abagannus (roasted aubergine with yoghurt and garlic) and efe which is a speciality herby white cheese flavoured with parsley. Then on to lamb and beef Ali kebabs flavoured with Anatolian spices. Grilled to absolute perfection, you will go back for seconds. We sure did. Oh, and absolutely do leave space for dessert!

For more information visit – https://www.aliocakbasi.com/

Address – They have a couple locations. We visited – Gümüşsuyu, İnönü Cd. No:22, 34870 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

Arcade in Istanbul

Çiçek Pasajı

CICEK PASAJI

Çiçek Pasajı has got to be one of Istanbul’s most beautiful arcades – located in the famous historic passage on İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu district of the city. Although there are finer eateries around area, the charming ambience of this arcade is reason enough to get a table and enjoy a drink and a quick bite while soaking in the nostalgia in between sightseeing and shopping. 

For more information visit – http://www.tarihicicekpasaji.com/

Address – Hüseyinağa Mah. İstiklal Cad. Saitpaşa Geçidi No:176, 34435 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

TEA TIME

Turkish Delight

Turkish Delights at ALI MUHIDDIN HACI BEKIR

ALI MUHIDDIN HACI BEKIR

If you want to satisfy your sweet tooth, head over to ALI MUHIDDIN HACI BEKIR for some tea/coffee and Turkish Delight. Take some to go or sit there to enjoy the experience. It has a conveyor belt of Turkish confectionary. Yes, you read right.  And honestly, it doesn’t get any better than this for the perfect afternoon break.

You can read more of my detailed write up on the store here.

For more information visit – https://www.hacibekir.com/Product/Index

Address – Katip Mustafa Çelebi, İstiklal Cd. No:83, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

DINNER

Dinner in Istanbul

Dinner at Gallada in The Peninsula Istanbul

GALLADA

As sunset approaches, go on to The Peninsula Istanbul to sip on some of their signature cocktails at the terrace Topside Bar (Try the Hong Kong… divine!). And then to the Gallada for dinner where globally renowned Chef Fatih Tutak brings you an exceptional gastronomic experience at this breathtaking location on the Bosphorus.

The menu is inspired by the incredible flavours of the ancient Silk Road cuisine right from Turkiye and Central Asia through to China. The Adana kebab dumplings and signature tandoori duck are a must order. Delish! I can see why it is one of the most recommended restaurants in the city and deserving of all their accolades.

For more information visit – https://www.galladaistanbul.com/en

Address – Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Kemankeş Cd. NO:34, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Dinner in Istanbul

Dinner at Neolokal

NEOLOKAL

Chef Maksut Askar and his incredible team at Neolokal have curated a menu that showcases Turkish heritage produce in the most tremendous way – a spin on some classic local dishes as well as inspiration from global cuisines. There are three seasonally changing tasting menus: A 3-course menu that you can design yourself by picking from alternative dishes provided for each course; a 5-course fixed vegetarian menu and a 6-course fixed tasting menu. All of them emphasize sustainability which has earned them the coveted Michelin Guide green 🍀 and a one ⭐️!

The restaurant’s wine list deserves a special mention too. Turkish wines have been carefully handpicked, including some exotic local grapes as well as natural and orange wines. The floor to ceiling windows and the outdoor terrace with views spanning Istanbul’s rooftops and mosques enhances the dining experience.

For more information visit – https://www.neolokal.com/en/neolokal_en/

Address – Arap Cami, Mahı, Bankalar Cd. No:11, 34420, 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Dinner in Istanbul

Sundowners at Neolokal

Recommend – Get to Neolokal around sunset and indulge in a sundowner or two on their outdoor terrace before heading for dinner. Their Negronis are some of the best I’ve ever had!

 

 

Dinner in Istanbul

Dinner at Tugra

TUGRA

On the first floor of the historical Ciragan Palace Kempinski, this award-winning restaurant serves up some incredible Turkish and Ottoman cuisine. Chef Emre Inanir has his own spin on classic flavours, blending tradition and modern dining. We had the tasting menu but there is the option to go a la carte too.

Traditional mezzes, succulent kebabs and seafood dishes are a must-try. There is a range of vegetarian options too. And of course, there are the Bosphorus views too. Quite the experience!

For more information visit – https://tugrarestaurant.com.tr/en/

Address – Ciragan Palace Kempinski Hotel, Ciragan Caddesi 32, Çiragan Cd, 34349 Besiktas/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Dinner in Istanbul

Dinner at The Red Balloon

THE RED BALLOON

Set amidst a tranquil oasis, the Red Balloon is a ‘casual fine dining’ restaurant. We sat in the outdoor terrace – one of the most gorgeous spaces I’ve seen…. Honestly! Led by the young Chef Ulas Durmaz, the menu reflects his own roots inspired by Mediterranean and North Aegean cuisine.

Its philosophy? Bring seasonal fresh and local produce to the table. We tried the tasting menu, and it was a *chef’s kiss* with a few outstanding courses including the Babakale Octopus, Iskenderun Shrimp, the Butter & Bread and the Cretan Squash Tart.

My crystal ball says more awards and accolades in the future!

For more information visit – https://theredballoon.com.tr/en/

Address – Yeniköy, Güzelce Ali Paşa Caddesi Salih Ağa Sokak, No: 5, 34464 Sarıyer/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Dinner in Istanbul

Dinner at Muutto

MUUTTO

The Muutto Anatolian Tapas Bar has a different approach to Anatolian cuisine with mouthwatering tapas-style dishes. With Chef Umut Karakuş at the helm, expect some great twists to modern Turkish cuisine. We especially loved the grilled octopus, the Anatolian tapas platter, the shrimp with pumpkin and couscous and the beef ribs.

Located at Galataport and Fişekhane, you are once again treated to some incredible views while dining!

For more information visit – https://www.muutto.com.tr/

Address – Kılıçali Paşa, Meclis-i Mebusan Cd. No:8, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Dinner in Istanbul

Dinner at Serica, The Bank Hotel

SERICA

Visit The Bank Hotel’s rooftop bar a little before sunset for sundowners and spectacular views of the city. Then, downstairs for dinner at Serica where Chef Yigit Alicioglu describes his adventure from soil to plate with his menu reflected by influences from the Aegean area, Central Anatolia and the Southeast of Turkey.

Table favourites were the Marinated Sea Bass with molasses, red onion, chili pepper and plum, the Bay Artichoke in oil with artichoke puree and fresh dill oil, the Grilled Romaine Lettuce Heart with pumpkin seeds, dried tomato and Pelit cheese, the Seafood Orzo Pilaf with shrimp, squid and mussels in a bisque sauce and the Lamb Shoulder Tandoori with stuffed onion apricot puree and a lamb jus. All devoured!

For more information visit – https://www.sericarestaurant.com/en

Address – Arap Cami, Bankalar Cd. 5/1 Karaköy, 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

 

Streets of Istanbul

Taksim Square

Istanbul, with its seamless blend of old and new, tradition and modernity, offers an unparalleled culinary adventure that makes every visit unforgettable. It’s more than just a destination; it’s an experience. An experience that tantalizes your taste buds, enriches your soul, and leaves you with memories to cherish for a lifetime. So, whether you’re planning your first trip or your tenth, İstanbul always has something new and delightful to offer. Enjoy every bite, every sight, and every moment in this extraordinary city!

Note: Reservations are highly recommended (including the casual dining spots).

You can follow me on Instagram account and check out highlights of the trip there. 

 

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